Straight answers
Questions, answered straight.
No fine print, no runaround — 75 of the questions people ask us most, sorted by topic. Can't see yours? Text us and we'll give you a straight answer.
General & booking
19Yes — every job is backed by public liability insurance, so your property is protected while we work.
We're based in Henderson, so West Auckland, Central Auckland and the North Shore get our fastest response — rapid arrival and short-notice emergencies. East and South Auckland get full daily coverage on standard scheduling. Beyond Auckland, we take on large-scale commercial restoration and critical flood work by prior arrangement.
You pay when the job's done — cash or card, on site, once we've walked it together and you're happy. No deposit to book. If you won't be there on the day, we settle it before we start instead: pay in advance or as we begin, and send the confirmation through. Credit cards carry a 2.4% surcharge; EFTPOS or debit skips it. Established business clients can arrange account terms in advance — just ask when you book.
Just let us know by 3pm the day before and there's no charge — 48 hours for flood or whole-house jobs. After that, or if we can't get in on the day, there's an $89 slot-hold fee, and we put it straight toward your rebooking if you go ahead within 7 days. We hold your time and plan our travel around it, so a bit of notice is all we ask.
Ideally, give the light stuff a quick move before we arrive — dining chairs and small items — so we can get right underneath. Anything heavy or precious we leave put: beds, pianos, appliances, glassware, artwork, or anything of personal value. Under big furniture that stays, a dry vacuum is usually all it needs. If you'd like it cleaned properly underneath, it's best to arrange professional movers — and only move it back once the carpet's completely dry, to avoid marks or mould. The ideal time to clean under big pieces is on freshly cleaned, dry carpet when you're rearranging anyway, or before/after a move when the whole area's already clear. Either way, just tell us what matters most and we'll work around it.
Most multi-room jobs run about 3–4 hours on site — that's the cleaning itself, separate from drying. Drying is the 2–4 hours after we leave (with decent airflow and low humidity). So a morning clean is usually walk-on dry by mid-afternoon. We'll give you a realistic time when we quote, so you can plan your day.
We'll always talk it through and agree the price with you before we carry on — no surprise charges after the fact. If it can't all be done safely in the booked time, we finish what we can, only charge for the work done, and book a time to complete the rest.
Yes please — anything only you'd know. A "dry clean only" label, a specialty or delicate fibre, and any bleach, chemical or spot-treatment used before (by you or another cleaner). Some materials need a different method, and old treatments can react with ours in ways no one can predict. We test a hidden spot where we can, but a quick heads-up up front protects your things.
If our work isn't right — a missed spot, or residue we've left behind — tell us within seven days and we'll come back and put it right. No debates. It covers our workmanship: not everyday re-soiling once life is back on the carpet, and not a mark we told you before we started was never going to lift. The easiest way to be sure is a quick walk-through with us before we leave, so anything missed is sorted on the spot.
Ask where the temperature is measured, because that's the part nobody explains. Water is heated at the machine — ours reaches 120°C there. It then has to travel the hose to reach your carpet, and it sheds heat the whole way: further on a long run, further on a cold morning, and further if the machine can't hold its temperature while the water keeps flowing. Stop to move a sofa and the water sitting in the hose cools down, so the next pass starts cooler than the last one ended. That's why we quote our figure at the machine and tell you that's where it's measured — it's the one point where the number is a fact. A precise temperature quoted at the carpet is describing something that changes minute by minute. The other half of the answer is whether the heat holds. Most vans take heat as a by-product of the engine that's also driving the vacuum and the pump, so three jobs compete for one power source and the system settles at a safe lower setting. Ours is a separate LPG-fired heater, so heat isn't fighting anything else for power. In practice we run it at about half — any more and the hose would mark your carpet.
No — and past a point it's actively worse. Carpet is cleaned somewhere between 200 and 500 PSI — the conservative residential figure is 200–300, typical wand work sits at 400–500, and it depends on the fibre and the soil. There is rarely a reason to go past 500 on any fabric. We work across that range, matched to the fibre in front of us. Push harder than the fibre needs and you stop lifting water out and start driving it into the backing. That's how carpet delaminates, that's how a mark wicks back up to the surface two days later, and it's why an over-pressured carpet is still damp the next morning. So a big pressure figure isn't a better clean — it's a different job. Machines advertising 1,000 PSI and up aren't wrong; that's a tile and grout figure, and hard floors genuinely want it. We don't do tile. We do carpet, and carpet wants control rather than force. There's also a number nobody quotes that matters more than either: vacuum. Suction drops away sharply with every extra metre of hose, and it's what pulls the water back out of your carpet — so we park close and run short, 10 to 30 metres wherever we can. How much water is left behind when we leave is your dry time.
Leave them for 24 hours. They are keeping furniture feet off damp carpet, and that matters most with metal castors and dark-stained timber — both can leave a rust ring or a dye mark that is far harder to shift than the soil we just took out. Once the carpet underneath is properly dry, lift them out. If a leg still feels cool and damp when you check, give it a few more hours.
Not until the carpet underneath is completely dry — usually the next day. A rug laid over damp carpet traps the moisture instead of letting it out, which is how you get a musty smell or a mark in the shape of the rug. Rubber-backed mats are the worst for it, because the backing can transfer colour into damp fibre as well. Give it a full day, then check with the back of your hand before anything goes down.
Once it is properly dry, usually the next day. Vacuuming damp carpet flattens the pile while it is still settling and pulls damp fluff into the machine. After that, vacuum as often as you normally would — it is the single thing that keeps a clean looking good for longest, because it lifts the dry grit before it gets walked in.
Slowly, and more than once over the same strip. Two slow passes lift more than four fast ones: the head needs time to agitate the pile and the airflow needs time to carry the grit out. Work in overlapping rows, and give doorways and the first few metres inside an entrance extra attention, because that is where most of it lands. Emptying the bag or bin before it is full matters too — a vacuum loses suction long before it looks full.
Scrubbing drives the spill down through the pile into the backing, and roughens the fibre while it is doing it. Two separate problems come out of that. What has gone into the backing is below where a clean can reach, so it can travel back up as the carpet dries and reappear days later. And the fibres themselves get untwisted and scratched, which scatters light — so even once the mark is gone, that patch reads dull and slightly fuzzy against the carpet around it. The mark was usually fixable. That damage is not. Blot instead: press, lift, repeat. More on stain & odour treatment.
Because working inwards keeps the spill the size it already is. Start in the middle and every press pushes liquid outwards into clean fibre, so a coin-sized spill becomes a saucer-sized ring. The edge of a ring is the hardest part to make disappear, because it is a gradient rather than a line. Work the outside edge first and move in, moving to a clean part of the cloth as you go.
Use white. A coloured cloth can put its own dye into wet carpet. Dye transfer needs wet fibre and pressure, and blotting supplies both — so a red tea towel pressed hard into damp pale carpet can leave a pink cast that has nothing to do with what was spilled. Dyed microfibre and printed kitchen paper are worth avoiding for the same reason. White has a second advantage: you can see what is lifting, so you know when you are done.
Because grit is abrasive, and it sits down at the base of the pile where every footstep grinds it against the fibre. Most of what a carpet holds is dry soil — sand, grit and tracked-in mineral matter — not spills. A stain is one patch you can see and usually treat. Grit is spread across the whole floor, invisible, cutting the fibre a little more each time someone walks over it. That does not wash out later, because by then it is the fibre itself that is scratched rather than something sitting on it. Vacuuming is what removes it, and it only works while the grit is dry.
Carpet cleaning
142–4 hours for most rooms with decent airflow and low humidity. What we won't do is guess at your room from a website. Cold, still, humid air with the windows shut changes everything, and so does the carpet, how soiled it was and which clean you chose — Premier is extracted harder, so it leaves with less water in it and comes back sooner. So we give you a straight read on the day, once we've seen the room: how long it's likely to take and what will move it. Most people aren't in a hurry — open the windows on opposite sides, run a fan or the heat pump, and let it dry on its own. That costs nothing and it's what we'd do. If you need it back faster, ask about drying assistance and we'll set fans up before we go: free on Premier if you ask when you book, $60 for two fans for an hour otherwise. And if fast drying matters more to you than a deep restorative clean, say so before we book — there are gentler low-moisture methods that dry far quicker, they don't reset a soiled carpet the way hot-water extraction does, and we'd rather match the method to what you actually need than sell you the wrong one.
That's the room's conditions rather than the clean — and you'll have heard it from us before we left. We pull most of the moisture back at the wand and finish with a low-pH conditioning rinse, so the damp worries people have — browning, mould, musty smells — don't creep in. Slow drying comes down to cold, still, humid air with no heating on and nothing open, and a Regular clean feels that more than a Premier one. We read the room on the day and tell you what to expect, so a slow dry is something you were warned about, not something you discover. Three things fix it fastest: airflow, lower humidity and a little warmth. And if waiting isn't an option, we set air movers up before we leave rather than leaving it to the weather — free on Premier if you ask when you book.
Yes — our machine runs high-heat (up to 120°C), but the heat is dialled right down at the wand to suit each fibre. Fine wool, synthetic piles and hand-woven rugs each get their own fibre-matched setting — never a blanket temperature.
You don't have to — vacuuming is part of what we do on the day. If you do have five minutes it genuinely helps, and it's worth knowing why: your vacuum lifts the loose dirt sitting on top, which frees ours to go after what a household machine can't reach — the grit and allergens held down in the base of the pile, where hot-water extraction does its real work. How much we vacuum depends on the clean you've chosen: Light gets a vacuum wherever it helps, Regular covers the traffic lanes and the busiest areas, and Premier gets a thorough vacuum throughout. What helps most, though, is a quick tidy — small items up off the floor, with anything valuable, breakable or precious tucked safely away. Then nothing's at risk, and we can get straight onto the carpet.
Yes — we use biodegradable, pet- and kid-safe pre-sprays to break down grease and oils. Then we finish with a low-pH conditioning rinse: it rebalances and softens the fibre and leaves no sticky detergent residue — think conditioner after shampoo. The finishing scent is a natural essential oil (lemon, lime or an exotic option) that deodorises and sanitises, so it smells genuinely clean rather than perfumed over. Nothing harsh left behind for little ones or bare feet.
Yes — we just ask everyone to give the damp floors and our gear a bit of room. Cleaning means the carpet stays damp for a couple of hours and our hoses run through the house while we work, so wet floors can be slippery (especially where carpet meets tile or vinyl) and the hoses and cables are a temporary trip hazard. Keep small children, anyone unsteady on their feet, and pets clear of the wet areas and the run of the hose until things are dry and packed up — and if a pet might bolt through a propped-open door, pop them in a closed room first. We lay our gear tidily and flag the slippery spots; a little care from both sides keeps the day smooth.
It sets them back hard — but start with your vet, not with us. Fleas live and breed on the animal; the carpet is only the nursery. Treat the pet first, or you'll be paying for this twice. Then the clean does the part most people underestimate. A heavy pre-vacuum with a counter-rotating brush lifts eggs and larvae out of the base of the pile and provokes the sealed cocoons — the ones nothing sprayed can reach into — to open. The 120°C steam clean flushes them out along with the dried blood the larvae feed on. On a flea job we finish with MediClean X-590, a flea treatment approved for use in New Zealand that stays in the fibre rather than being rinsed away, so it keeps working after we've gone — which is why nobody's in the room while it goes down or while it dries. We ventilate as we work, and everyone comes back on it once it is completely dry — dry, not damp. What we won't do is pretend that ends it. A heavy, established infestation wants a pest controller with a growth regulator — we'll tell you that rather than take the job twice. The full order that works is here.
It's priced on the size of the house, and it sits on top of the carpet clean rather than replacing it. A flea job is always quoted as our premium clean, because it honestly is more work: a slower, heavier pre-vacuum, a longer dwell, and the treatment applied afterwards and left in the fibre. The treatment is a real cost to us too — it can't be watered down, and a three-bedroom house uses most of a bottle. What you get for it is one visit and one invoice, instead of a carpet cleaner one day and a pest controller the next. Tell us how many rooms and whether the pet's been treated and we'll give you the number straight — and if it's a heavy or repeat infestation we'll come and look before quoting, because guessing at those helps nobody.
As a rule of thumb, every 12–18 months for a typical home. That's the interval carpet-industry guidance (like the Carpet & Rug Institute) recommends, in line with AS/NZS 3733 maintenance practice, and it's what keeps most carpet warranties valid. With kids, pets or a busy household, closer to every 6–12 months keeps them healthy. Really high-traffic or health-sensitive spaces can want it more often again. Regular cleaning isn't just about looks: it clears the grit that grinds the fibre down early, so the carpet lasts longer. Work out the right interval for your own house here — it takes about a minute.
Sometimes replacing is the right answer, and we'll tell you when it is. If the backing has gone, the pile is matted flat right through the traffic lanes, or the carpet is simply worn out, no clean brings that back — cleaning fixes what's on a carpet, not what's left of it. But a carpet that looks finished is very often just filthy, and the difference is hard to see under a few years of grit. We've had customers who had already priced a replacement and didn't need one. Send us a photo before you commit to thousands of dollars of new carpet. If it's past saving we'll say so — there's no sense taking your money for a clean that won't change anything.
It can, when the heat and moisture aren't matched to the fibre — which is most of the skill in this job. The real risks are over-wetting and heat a fibre can't take: wool shrinks and browns, some backings let go, and a carpet left soaked can stay damp for days. So we test a hidden patch first, set the machine to the fibre in front of us rather than running everything flat out, and pull the moisture back to the van instead of leaving it in the floor. It's also worth knowing that hot-water extraction is the method most carpet makers require to keep a warranty valid — Shaw and Mohawk both specify it, every 12 to 18 months. Done carelessly it can do harm. Done properly it's what the manufacturer asks for.
If the carpet is still sound, almost always — and the reason isn't how it looks. What wears carpet out is grit: hard particles sitting down at the base of the pile, cutting the fibres every time someone walks across them. A vacuum lifts what's on top; it doesn't reach that. A proper extraction does, and a clean costs a fraction of replacing the floor. It isn't worth it on a carpet that's genuinely finished, and we'll tell you if that's what we find. What's never worth it is a cheap clean that over-wets the carpet and leaves detergent behind — sticky residue pulls dirt straight back, and it looks grubby again within weeks.
That one is settled by the Tenancy Tribunal, not by a cleaner — but here's what we can usefully tell you. In broad terms, wear that comes from ordinary living is normal wear and tear, while damage and heavy soiling generally aren't, and a tenant is expected to leave a place reasonably clean rather than professionally cleaned. We're not lawyers and we won't pretend to be. What we can give you is a dated invoice and an honest written record of the carpet's actual condition — which is usually what settles these arguments in either direction. If a carpet was already worn when we got there, our note says so. We won't write it up worse than it was to help anyone's case.
Three numbers get quoted at you, and all three are easy to misread. Temperature — ask where it is measured. Ours is 120°C at the machine and honestly lower by the time it reaches the carpet; anyone quoting one number without saying which end it came from is quoting the flattering one (does hotter water actually clean better?). Pressure — higher is not better. Too much drives water past the pile into the backing, and that is what leaves a carpet damp for days (is a higher PSI better?). Hose length — every metre off the reel costs heat and suction, which is why we move the van rather than run more hose (why long hose runs leave carpet wetter). None of these three decides whether your carpet comes clean — the person holding the wand does. But they are the fastest way to find out whether a cleaner has thought about their own kit. And if you want the methods themselves compared rather than the machine, we have done that too: carpet cleaning methods compared.
Stains & odour
7Often yes — especially if it hasn't been scrubbed or dried in. We treat the pigment with a targeted, fibre-safe solution and flush it with hot-water extraction. Fresh spills lift best; a wine stain that's been rubbed hard or hit with a supermarket remover is tougher, and we'll give you a straight read before we start.
Often — but it has to be treated all the way down, not just on the surface. Urine soaks through the pile into the backing and underlay, so a surface clean lets the smell wick back. We treat it with an enzyme that breaks the urine down, then extract it from deep in the carpet. Old, repeated accidents are the hardest — sometimes the underlay is the real source, and we'll tell you honestly what we can reach.
Usually yes — even older ones. Coffee and tea are tannin stains; we treat them with a targeted tannin remover and flush with 120°C extraction. The before-and-after on this page is a real Te Atatū lounge of set-in coffee and tea. Very old or previously-bleached marks may only partly lift — you'll get a straight read first.
We treat every stain — but like a doctor with a patient, we can't promise a full cure on all of them. Some have permanently changed the fibre's dye, so no treatment brings it all the way back. Where experience lets us call it, we'll tell you before we start — and we'd rather say so than take your money for a maybe. Others genuinely can't be called until they've been treated and we've seen: how long it's been there, what the fibre is, what was spilled and what someone reached for at the time all change how it responds. Either way you get the honest version — what we tried, what shifted, and what didn't. No false hope, no surprises.
Best thing: blot it gently with a clean white cloth and a little plain water, then leave the rest to us. Please don't reach for supermarket spot removers or bleach — they can react with our treatment later (and sometimes bleach the fibre), and a stain that's already been DIY-treated is much harder for us to shift. A quick blot, and let us know what happened.
We'll give you our honest read before we start — and the truth after. A stain is rarely one simple thing. How long it's been sitting there, what the fibre is, what was actually spilled, and what someone reached for to clean it up at the time — often half-remembered, sometimes not at all. Every one of those changes how it responds, and they combine in ways nobody can read off the surface. We could investigate properly — test it, strip it back, find out exactly what's in there. On a single mark that usually costs more than the stain is worth, and we'd rather not spend your money that way. So we do the thing with the best odds instead: treat it properly. The right chemistry for your fibre, products we trust, and a method built over a thousand-odd jobs — then look at the result with you, honestly. Where experience lets us call it, we'll tell you before we start. Some marks won't lift — dye, bleach, or damage that's changed the fibre itself — and we'd rather say so than take your money for a maybe. Others genuinely can't be called until they've been treated and we've seen. You'll get the honest version either way: what we tried, what shifted, and what didn't. And where we did say a mark would go and it hasn't, we'll re-treat it free — if another cleaner then removes it, we'll refund what you paid us for treating that stain. (Full details in our terms.)
Come back to us — we're not starting from scratch. What usually happened is that the mark went deeper than anyone could see: ink, dye and heavy spills soak through the carpet into the backing and the underlay. What sat on the surface came out. What was underneath is still there, and as the carpet dries it travels back up. We cleaned what a clean can reach — lifting the carpet to find out what's beneath it is a different job, and we didn't charge you for it. So if it surfaces again, tell us. That second visit is charged, because it's genuinely new work — but we're the right people for it: we know what the mark looked like before, how it behaved when we treated it, and what came away. We'll find the root of it, treat what can be treated, and give you a straight answer on whether it'll hold. Sometimes it does. Sometimes the honest answer is that it sits below anything a clean can reach, and the fix is new carpet rather than more cleaning. We'd rather tell you that than keep cleaning it.
Mattress
14Mattress cleaning starts at $149, and most jobs land between $149 and $199. Where you sit in that range comes down to the size of the mattress, how much cleaning it actually needs, whether there's stain or odour treatment involved, and where you are in Auckland. Having more than one thing cleaned in the same visit is always better value than booking them separately. And we'll back that on price: bring us a current written quote for comparable work and we'll beat it or match it. If another company is running a special or dropping their price to fill a quiet week, tell us — same answer.
Our machine heats to 120°C, and we work to somewhere around 70–90°C at a mattress surface — still well above the ~55–60°C dust mites can't survive. That range comes from experience rather than a laboratory, and it's set for the fabric in front of us — a wool carpet or an olefin pile gets run far cooler, because heat that's right for one fibre will damage another. Just as importantly, it lifts out the sweat and dead skin they feed on, so the population is knocked right back and survivors struggle to recolonise. Regular cleaning is what keeps it that way. One deep clean dramatically reduces them; nothing honestly sterilises a whole mattress, and we won't pretend otherwise.
Fast — dust mites don't survive much above 55–60°C, and we work well above that. But time isn't really the variable. What matters is coverage: slow, overlapping passes so every part of the surface actually takes the heat, rather than a quick once-over that looks identical afterwards. Rushing is what leaves mites behind, not the temperature.
It's dry before bedtime. We use controlled moisture — never a soaking — so with a little airflow (crack a window or run a fan) you sleep on it the same night. It takes a bit longer on a still, humid day with poor airflow.
It has never happened on one of our jobs, and we're careful to keep it that way. We use controlled moisture rather than a soaking, and a mattress is normally dry before bedtime. The one thing that helps is airflow afterwards — crack a window or run a fan for a few hours, especially after a deep treatment on a still, humid day. That's usually all it takes. If you'd rather not think about it, we can leave an air mover with you.
Yes — our pre-sprays are low-tox and pet- and kid-friendly, safe once dry, and we finish low-residue, so there's nothing harsh left where you sleep. Heat does the real work, not a fog of chemicals. A deep steam clean for deep-sweat sleep.
Most mattresses do well with a professional clean every 6–12 months. Sooner if someone has allergies or asthma, there are pets on the bed, or after a spill or illness. Regular cleaning stops sweat, dead skin and the dust mites that feed on them from building back up.
Often, yes — we treat the stain and the smell at the source with an enzyme pre-treatment, then flush it with high-heat extraction rather than masking it. We give you a straight read first: fresh marks lift best; older or previously DIY-treated stains may not fully clear, and we'll tell you before we start, not after.
Those are usually old sweat and body oils that have oxidised — sometimes urine. We treat them with an enzyme pre-treatment and high-heat extraction rather than bleaching them out, and they usually lighten a lot. Old, set marks don't always clear completely, and we'll give you a straight read before we start, not after.
Yes for most mattresses — and the warnings you'll read online are about domestic steamers, which push moisture into foam with no way of taking it back out. Hot-water extraction is the opposite: a controlled amount goes in and comes straight back out in the same pass, so the foam never sits wet. Spring, latex, hybrid and pillow-top are all cleaned this way. Where we say no: if the care label rules out steam or hot-water extraction, we won't clean it — unless you ask us to knowing the risk, which usually comes up when the alternative is throwing the mattress out. Same with foam that's been soaked, urine especially, which is genuinely hard to fix. We've done a number of both, carefully, without a problem — but we'd rather you made that call with your eyes open than have us promise something we can't.
If you spend a third of your life on it, yes. A mattress quietly collects years of sweat, dead skin and the dust-mite allergen a vacuum can't reach — a deep high-heat clean — up to 120°C at the machine — resets the surface you breathe on for eight hours a night, and helps protect a mattress you'll want to keep for years.
Most manufacturers put it at 7–10 years, and if yours is past that and sagging, cleaning won't save it. A clean fixes what's on the mattress — sweat, allergen, staining, smell. It doesn't fix a mattress that has broken down inside, and we'll tell you that rather than take the job. If it's still comfortable and it's only the surface that has gone off, a clean costs a fraction of replacing it.
The bed is where they concentrate, because that's where the food is — but carpet holds them too, especially in bedrooms. If allergies are the reason you're calling, having the mattress and the bedroom carpet done in the same visit makes more sense than either on its own, and it's one call-out instead of two.
No — bed bugs need a licensed pest controller, not a cleaner, and we'll tell you that straight rather than take the job. They aren't a hygiene problem: they travel in on luggage and second-hand furniture and turn up in spotless homes. What regular cleaning does do is get eyes on the mattress often enough to spot them early, when treatment is simpler. Once a pest controller has been through, we're glad to come and clean up afterwards.
Upholstery & leather
8Most suites are touch-dry in 2–4 hours with a little airflow — crack a window or run a fan and it moves along nicely. It takes a bit longer if we've done an odour treatment, or on a still, humid day with poor airflow. We keep the moisture controlled so cushions are never soaked.
Usually a big improvement, often gone. We treat odour at the source with an enzyme treatment rather than masking it with fragrance, and lift marks with a fabric-safe stain treatment. Deep-set or long-standing pet odour can need more than one pass, and we'll give you a straight read on the day about what will and won't fully lift.
We match the method to your fabric, not the other way round. We check the care label, test a hidden patch first, and set the heat to suit the fibre. Some fabrics are marked "dry clean only" — those we won't hot-water clean, and we'll tell you straight rather than risk it.
Upholstery is priced per piece — you only pay for what you have, and you'll see the exact number before you book. A quick photo of the suite and any marks gets you an accurate quote in about 90 seconds, with no on-site markup.
Often most will — but not always, and you'll get a straight read rather than a promise. Fresh marks lift best; old, set-in, sun-faded or dye-lost areas won't come back to new. Some of those we can spot before we start, and we'll say so. Others we can't call until we've tested them — fabric, age and whatever was used on it first all change how it responds. You'll hear what we tried, what shifted, and what didn't. No false promises either way.
Leather, yes — cleaned and then conditioned to feed the hide so it stays supple. Suede and delicate specialty fabrics we assess by the care label first and tell you honestly what's safe — some are genuinely "dry clean only" and we won't risk them.
Every 12–18 months for a family sofa — sooner if you have pets, allergies, or light-coloured fabric that shows the everyday body oils and dust it soaks up. Regular cleaning stops the grime setting in and keeps the fabric feeling soft.
Same job, three names — and what actually changes the method is the fabric, not the word. A tightly woven synthetic couch takes moisture and agitation a loose linen or a velvet will not. So we read the care code (W, S, WS or X), test an out-of-sight patch first, and work by hand with an upholstery tool at low pressure and high extraction. Over-wetting fabric is how you get watermarks and a suite that is still damp at bedtime, and that is the failure we are working to avoid.
Rugs
6We clean wool, synthetic and modern area rugs beautifully on-site — including many oriental and wool-pile pieces. Genuine antique, hand-knotted Persian or pure-silk rugs are usually safer with a full-immersion specialist hand-wash, so we colour-test and read your rug first and tell you honestly which yours needs — rather than sell you a clean that could risk it.
In your home — on-site hot-water extraction, so your rug never leaves the house and there's no days-long wait. We can clean it in the same visit as your carpet. For delicate pieces that genuinely need immersion washing, we'll point you to a specialist instead.
Priced by size and fibre — you see the number before you book. A small hallway runner and a big lounge rug aren't the same job, so the price follows the rug. Send a photo and rough measurements and you'll get an accurate quote in about 90 seconds; specialty and antique pieces are quoted on inspection.
Every 1–2 years for a family rug in a living area, and every 3–5 years for a low-traffic decorative piece — sooner with pets, allergies or spills. A rug quietly collects the grit and dust that get walked in, so a regular clean keeps the pile soft and the colours fresh instead of letting grime grind in.
We colour-test a hidden corner first, before any clean touches the rug. If a rug's dyes aren't stable enough for on-site cleaning, we'll tell you straight and recommend a specialist — better an honest answer than a bleed. On colour-fast rugs, a proper fibre-matched clean brings the colour and softness back.
Often yes — we treat the spot with an enzyme-based product, then flush it with hot-water extraction to lift what's soaked into the pile. The fresher the accident the better the result; urine that's dried deep into the backing can be more stubborn, and we'll give you a straight read on what to expect before we start.
Flood & water damage
7Often, yes — if we get to it fast. We extract the water and dry the carpet and underlay properly, and a lot of carpet comes back fine. But not always: if the water's been sitting for days, or it's contaminated — sewage, or flood water off the ground — replacing it is the safer call. We give you a straight read on the day rather than dry something that should really go.
With water, hours matter — so we move fast. We answer 7 days, including after-hours for a genuine emergency, and we'll give you the first steps to limit the damage while we're on our way. The sooner the water's out, the more of your carpet and home we can save.
If it's safe to: stop the water at the source, switch off power to any wet areas at the board, and lift furniture off the wet carpet — or slip foil or plastic under the legs so they don't stain or rust the pile. Lift what you easily can, but don't run a household vacuum over standing water. We'll talk you through it when you call.
We make the claim easy to back up. You'll get clear before-and-after photos and a written record of the work, so you've got what your insurer needs. You deal with the claim itself; we give you straight, tidy documentation to support it.
Our focus is getting the water out, drying and sanitising. Any repairs, re-stretching or re-laying we organise through trusted trades — so it's one point of contact and no runaround. We line it up; you don't have to chase anyone.
Most wet carpet can be dried in place — we extract the water first, then dry the structure with meters on it, and the carpet stays down. Lifting is a decision, not a default: it depends on the water source, how long it sat and what the underlay is doing. Underlay is the part that usually gets replaced, because it holds water the carpet above it has already given up. We give you that call on the day, with the readings, before any drying starts.
Three to five days for the structure, not the two to four hours a normal clean takes. Those are different jobs: a clean puts a controlled amount of water in and takes it straight back out, while a flood has already soaked the underlay, the subfloor and often the skirting. We meter it rather than guess — drying stops when the readings say it is dry, and the log is what your insurer wants to see.
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